Over the next few days the Curmudgeon will review some of the highlights (and lowlights) of our recent travels across the South.Today is part one of our review of Kiawah Island, South Carolina.
Kiawah bills itself as a golf resort, but really ought to call itself a family resort. True, Kiawah does have a fantastic collection of golf courses (more on that tomorrow), but unlike some golf resorts we've visited there is oh so much more to Kiawah.
Now, in case you're wondering, this was our tenth straight summer with a week at Kiawah, so obviously we were sold long ago. We're pretty sure we'll be back again next year. We have quite a few friends who regularly go back to Kiawah year in and year out as well.
What makes Kiawah so special for families?
To start with, there is the island's well-preserved natural beauty. The whole island is one resort community, so there is consistency throughout. Apart from the usual well-manicured landscaping of any resort community, Kiawah has managed to preserve the natural maritime forest to a large degree. As a result, you will feel like you're staying in a nature preserve.
Kids love seeing all the alligators, the deer at dusk, the various lizards and salamanders, the dolphins, the fiddler crabs and the various seabirds--herons, egrets, pelicans and quite a few others. There is also the excitement of the more occasional finds, such as the bobcat we saw three years ago, the occasional snake (our friend encountered a deadly coral snake on the golf course this year), sea turtles and other critters of the deep. (We weren't fond of the live welks--like a conch, only smaller--lurking in the surf with very sharp shells that cut the curmudgeon's feet three times.)
Getting around is also easy: the entire island is covered with bike paths; everything is flat and you can ride on the beach as well. All one needs to get around is a one-speed beach bike, which is easily rented at a reasonable rate.
Then, there's the beach, which like most beaches in South Carolina is wide and flat with gentle surf and toddler friendly tide pools. We invited some friends this year who'd spent most of their beach vacations at Ocean City in Maryland and Rehoboth/Bethany in Delaware, and they were awed by Kiawah's uncrowded, pristine beach, nearly a hundred yards wide at low tide. The water is warm and most days the kids can cavort in the surf without fear of being swept away.
Kiawah's amenities are also terrific. Like many resorts, Kiawah has a kid's camp where you can dump your kids (not that we ever have), but unlike most resorts it also has a huge range of family friendly activities you can do WITH your kids. In effect, it's like a family camp. (You can also put your kids into activities on an a la carte basis.)
Activities include a range of outdoor programs such as guided family canoeing and kayaking (in the marshes behind the island), family fishing and crabbing, nature walks, and various nature demonstrations. There are also a range of craft activities, such as creating tye-die shirts, and teen activities (no parents, please!) such as a nighttime pool party.
Every evening includes a family-oriented event, usually free or inexpensive, such as a magician/ice cream social (this year, the adults reported the magician was quite good), an oyster roast, the Kiawah Karnival, and a goofy kazoo guy who little kids just adore.
Kiawah has also integrated the family fun into golf with its terrific Family Tee Program. Every night, starting at 6:00 pm (we wish they'd start a tad earlier), four of the golf courses reserve tee times, spaced 15 minutes apart, just for families. Everyone plays from family-friendly tees well forward of the ladies tees, and the cost is low.
Tennis is also a hidden gem at Kiawah, with a terrific facility, great staff, extensive programs and, once again, family-friendly options.
For people in the DC area, Kiawah is pretty accessible--about a 9-10 hour drive by car, or an easy flight to Charleston's tiny airport, followed by a 45 minute drive.
Lodging isn't cheap, but if you check out the various villa options, particularly from off-island rental companies (easily found on the internet), you can find perfectly reasonable accomodations.
Or, do like us: bring a huge family group, rent one of Kiawah's large distinctive oceanfront homes, pay through the nose and have a great time.
On the curmudgeonly side, we don't have much to say (until we get to the golf course, tomorrow). Options for eating out are quite limited. It gets pretty hot and quite humid during the day, but there's always a breeze. It often rains, briefly but intensely, late in the day (but we've never had a rainy week in ten years there). Charleston is a bit of a hike--45 minutes of driving--but certainly worth an evening for a great dinner (or a visit to the minor league River Dogs baseball stadium or Battery soccer venue).
Our biggest complaint is usually that the week ends far too soon.
Tomorrow: Kiawah golf.
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